Christmas in Paris 2026: Markets, Lights, Bûches and the Réveillon, a Food Lover's Guide
The light goes early in December, sometime before five, and that is when Paris becomes another city. The plane trees along the Champs-Élysées glow red, the smell of roasted chestnuts drifts from a street corner, a waiter hurries past with a tray of oysters, and in every pâtisserie window the bûches de Noël sit under glass like little jewels. Christmas in Paris is not loud. It is golden, a little cold, and very, very delicious.
Christmas in Paris begins in mid-November: the Tuileries Christmas market opens on 6 November 2026, the Galeries Lafayette windows on 12 November, and the Champs-Élysées lights on 22 November, staying on until early January. The heart of the season, though, is at the table, with the réveillon dinner on 24 December and the bûche de Noël.
When does Christmas start in Paris?
Earlier than most people think. The Tuileries market, La Magie de Noël, opens on 6 November 2026 and runs until 8 January 2027. The department stores unveil their windows in mid-November: at the Galeries Lafayette on boulevard Haussmann, this year's Christmas is designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, with windows from 12 November and the rooftop ice rink from 24 November. On 22 November, the Champs-Élysées lights are switched on, a moment Parisians still love, and the avenue stays lit until 3 January 2027.
If you can choose, come in the first two weeks of December. Everything is lit, the markets are open, the pâtisseries have revealed their bûches, and the city is not yet emptied by the holidays.
Which Christmas markets in Paris are worth visiting?
Let me be honest: Paris is not Strasbourg, and its Christmas markets are more about atmosphere than food. Come for the lights, a cup of vin chaud and a warm crêpe, not for a great meal. The Tuileries market, between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde, is the biggest, with its Ferris wheel and rides, lovely for families. The small market on the Square René Viviani, facing Notre-Dame, from 26 November to 27 December 2026, is the most charming, with the cathedral lit up across the river. And this year the Champs-Élysées welcomes back a Christmas market on the lower part of the avenue, near the Concorde, from 22 November 2026 to 4 January 2027.
One of my most vivid Christmas memories in Paris happened right there, in the Tuileries. It was cold, but the afternoon was beautiful, and for the first and only time in my life I rode the big Ferris wheel they set up in the garden every winter. The sun was going down, and from the top I watched the lights of the Christmas market come on below me, one by one. If you go, time it for sunset.
For something bigger, the market at La Défense, from 12 November to 31 December, is one of the largest in the region, but it closes early on 24 December and stays closed on Christmas Day.
Where to see the Christmas lights and windows
Start on boulevard Haussmann, where the Galeries Lafayette and the Printemps compete for the most magical windows and the most spectacular tree; children press their noses to the glass, and so do adults. Then walk to Place Vendôme and rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where the jewellers and fashion houses dress their façades, and finish on the Champs-Élysées, ideally at dusk, when the lights come on all at once. On the Left Bank, Le Bon Marché and the streets of Saint-Germain are quieter and very elegant.
What do the French eat at Christmas?
In France, the great Christmas meal is the réveillon, on the evening of 24 December. It is long, festive and very generous. It usually opens with oysters from Brittany or Marennes-Oléron, foie gras with a slice of brioche or pain d'épices, and smoked salmon, often with a glass of Champagne. Then comes a festive bird, a capon, a turkey with chestnuts or a guinea fowl, followed by cheese and, of course, the bûche de Noël. In Provence, families keep the tradition of the thirteen desserts, and in Alsace, the bredele biscuits fill every kitchen with cinnamon and butter.
December is also the season of the great winter products: the first black truffles, the scallops, the best oysters and the most generous cheeses. If you love the food of the cold months, here are the classic winter foods of France.
The bûche de Noël, Paris's sweetest event
Every autumn, the great pâtisseries of Paris unveil their Christmas collections, and the bûche de Noël has become a small work of art, sculpted, glazed, sometimes barely recognisable as a log. For Parisians, choosing the bûche is a serious matter, discussed at the office and between friends. If you are in Paris in December, look at the windows, taste a slice in a tea room, and if you want one for Christmas Eve, order it at least a week or two ahead, as the most famous creations sell out.
I learned how serious the bûche is the hard way. One Christmas Eve, invited to friends for the réveillon, I stepped out of the car and watched the bûche I had bought for the evening slip from my hands and smash on the pavement. It was seven in the evening on 24 December. Total panic. I crossed the city looking for another one, and at The French Bastards, as they were closing, they let me in and sold me the very last bûche they had: passion fruit, mango and coconut. I arrived an hour late, but with dessert, and it was delicious. Since then I always tell my clients the same thing: order early, and carry it with both hands.
For a taste of the city's best pastry houses all year round, here are the French pâtisseries that define Paris, and our Best of French Pastry tour takes you through them with a guide.
Is Paris open on Christmas Day?
Partly. On 25 December most shops are closed, as are many restaurants and most of the major museums, and public transport runs a reduced service. Many restaurants close on the 24th as well, or offer a special réveillon menu at a fixed price. The grand hotel restaurants, some brasseries and a few bistros stay open, but they fill up weeks in advance, so book your Christmas Eve and Christmas Day tables as early as you can, ideally in October or early November. On 26 December, Paris returns to normal: it is not a public holiday, except in Alsace and Moselle.
Tips for visiting Paris at Christmas
Book your hotel early, especially for the week between Christmas and New Year, and reserve your restaurants before you book anything else. Pack warm clothes and good shoes: December days are short and often damp, and the most beautiful walks happen after dark. Visit the markets and the department stores on weekday mornings rather than at weekends, and keep a slow afternoon free for a hot chocolate in a tea room. And leave room in your suitcase for chocolate, marrons glacés and a jar of foie gras: they are the best souvenirs of a Parisian Christmas.
Frequently asked questions
When are the Christmas lights on in Paris in 2026?
The Champs-Élysées lights are switched on on 22 November 2026 and stay lit until 3 January 2027. The department store windows on boulevard Haussmann open from mid-November.
What are the dates of the Paris Christmas markets in 2026?
The Tuileries market runs from 6 November 2026 to 8 January 2027, the Notre-Dame market on the Square René Viviani from 26 November to 27 December, the Champs-Élysées market from 22 November to 4 January, and La Défense from 12 November to 31 December.
What do the French eat on Christmas Eve?
The réveillon on 24 December usually includes oysters, foie gras, smoked salmon and Champagne, followed by a festive bird such as capon or turkey with chestnuts, cheese and a bûche de Noël.
Are restaurants open in Paris on Christmas Day?
Some are, especially in grand hotels and brasseries, but many close on 24 and 25 December. Book several weeks in advance.
Is December a good time to visit Paris?
Yes, especially the first half of the month, when the lights, windows and markets are all in place and the city still has its everyday life.
If you dream of spending the holidays in Paris, with the right tables booked, a pastry walk and maybe a day in Champagne, I would be happy to design that trip for you. Tell me about your trip.
